Pitstop at the Soda Fountain
Through the chromed soda fountain handles, a cold metal spoon wrestled a 4th hearty scoop from the tub of vanilla ice cream. The middle mixing shaft of a seafoam-green Hamilton Beach triple mixer swirled the ice-cream lumps together with chocolate malt powder, spooned from a yellow tin kept above the fridge. Little scratches have stripped away any shine or reflection the metal mixing cup may have had. The mirror behind the counter shows a couple joking back and forth over their french fries on a gingham-clothed table. The two girls behind the counter take turns ribbing each other about picking up shifts between moments to turn their commentary towards the customers. An elk head surveyed the room approvingly from its wall mount. The Chugwater soda fountain is one of only two places to gather in the town of 212 people. An hour out of Cheyenne, with no gas left in the tank, I accidentally rolled into town hoping my GPS lied when it said there were no gas stations around.
The counter at the Soda Fountain has the trappings of a Norman Rockwell painting
“We’ve got no gas station yet. Used to when I was younger, maybe 6 years back but that burnt down. You’re in luck though, we still have pumps for gas, and they take card. Hopefully soon we’ll have a proper gas station, that’ll be fun, bring some more life to town.”
The young girl looked away wistfully for a moment, imagining her and her friends at a local gas station, before I ask what people do for fun in town.
“We mostly go to Cheyenne for fun, and for our main supplies too. The Soda Fountain here has some basics like detergent and sugar and milk but for more stuff, you’ve gotta head into the city about an hour away. Really the town only has a few things to do in it, especially for kids. You can go to the Stampede Bar down the road, the Soda Fountain, or you can drop in on each other’s houses. Same’s true for work, it’s those two places or any of the ranches nearby that’ll take you. That’s what most of us do when we’re not in school.
School here is all one building K through 12, and the whole school has about 50 people. It feels like every year the school is getting smaller. My mom had a graduating class of 20, but I’m going to graduate with 5. ”
The town was identical to small towns across the country so far but for one thing: there wasn’t much of anything to hint at a decline. A quarter of the town was still in school, its population young and fresh-faced. The few businesses there were open and full - not a closed shop to be seen. It was small and hardy, as though economic or cultural hardship somehow could not gnaw away at its vitality, as they had other towns. There is a confidence in Chugwater, an air of comfort that other towns were missing. It’s something unnoticeable in other towns until you’ve seen it done right in a place like this. The safety and warmth of people not worried that their home is on the precipice gently buoys everyone that lives there. Conversations all smack of an extended family gathering from a comedy flick.
Bob and Jimmy hug hello after a long time apart
“Jimmy! It’s great to see ya brother!
Oh hey there Bob! Good to see you man, you remember my wife Amanda right?
Oh sure, sure. Since you were gone, I was married too! Got divorced though on account of religious reasons… She thought she was god and that turned me atheist!
Well I’m glad to see you’re still doing well.
Oh you know it, I’m still rocking. Gonna head down to the Stampede, I’ll see you down there later?
Yeah I’ll be in town a while so I’ll be sure to see you there.
“I thought they were down there shooting a video?
Yeah they are, that’s why Bob’s in his nice shirt.
Oh they’re still at that video down at the bar? I’m going down there right now, I’m sure I’ll muss it up! You got your badge right Jimmy? I might need your help. Don’t spend all your money there on candy and soda-pop because I might need to get out of jail or something!
Sure thing, Bob, don’t get it too much trouble!”
From the pedestal stool of the Soda Fountain, I watched people wander in and out. They chatted with the girls behind the counter and with each other, speaking the same english as me but with an art and flourish that felt like it had to be scripted. The cadence of their conversations was so fluid and dynamic, each person a well formed character, communicating like it was a well rehearsed play. Every conversation unfurled another bit of history as though the town itself seemed to want to be interviewed.
Groceries are sold in the back corner of the Soda Fountain
“It’s funny sitting back in this place, I used to basically live here.
Oh yeah, you grew up here?
Well yeah, my parents used to own this place. Course they sold it a while back after I moved to Mississippi.
Nuh uh, no way, you’re related to Bim and Myron? I thought they only had two kids!
Nope, I’m the handsome one that ran away from home. Well if you count getting kicked out as running away. These days I’m deputy sheriff down there. It’s been quite a turnaround.
Yeah, he’s real important you should know him.
Well, he looks so much younger than his brothers.
Course, he does, they’re drinkers. Makes ‘em real old looking.
Hey if I’m so important, how come you haven’t friended me on Facebook?
Oh shut it, I only accept friend requests that get sent to me, that’s just how I do it!
I’m glad I never signed up for the thing. See Jimmy? It’s not worth the hassle.
Well, don’t say that Joe, the woman of your dreams could be there on Facebook.
Yeah, that’s how I want it! I’ll just keep dreaming, as long as I’m dreaming about her she ain’t bothering me!
Hey there Casey!
Oh Uncle Jimmy, how funny seeing you here! You back from Mississippi?
Jeez, Casey, you’re related to everyone, aren’t you?
She didn’t know I was Bim and Myron’s son.
Well yeah of course he is.
Wow, still got that elk up there, eh? That thing’s been up there for ever.
It was shot in 1946 near Jackson and brought here in 1947. He’s named after the guy who shot him, Wendell. And a town law prevents Wendell from leaving the Soda Fountain building, no matter who owns it. He’s like the mascot. Hey, would you go do your job already?
I’m trying, you’re standing in the way!”
Topics run into each other in a swirl of controlled chaos. This sort of banter, swinging back and forth between cracking jokes and reveling in local history, is only available with deep sympathetic trust. It’s easier to think of the town as a family than a municipality. That may be the reason Chugwater stood up to the trends that are eating away at other small towns. Family bonds bounce off hardship better than about anything else. The frenetic whirl of communal energy flicks away the apathy and decay sucking the life from other towns like a vampire in slow motion. Intangibles like this are what make the town interesting, a living force, that makes it easier to imagine the heydays of larger towns, now crumbling a bit under the weight of change.
The outside of the Soda Fountain looks as classic as can be
